ROUND BRILLIANT CUT DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RINGS
The classical Round Cut diamond ring, or Brilliant Cut diamond ring as it is often called, is the leading style of diamond cut in the world diamond market. It has the most brilliance due to its perfect round shape and the 58 facets that characterise the modern round brilliant cut diamonds.
Although there are 58 facets, the proportions and angles are all different due to the rough diamonds being different shapes with different clarities. Often the stone is cut to get the best yield from the rough material.
Brilliant cut diamonds have three categories referring to the quality of the overall cut. They are classified according to Cut, Polish and Symmetry and each one is graded between Excellent and Poor.
The Cut grade describes the overall quality and its closeness to the designated perfect cut angles and ratios (percentages). Surprisingly, it doesn’t cost a great deal more to have an excellent cut grade diamond in your ring.
The Polish grade describes the smoothness of the diamond’s surface. Polish is usually very good to excellent nowadays due to the superior machinery used in modern cutting factories.
Symmetry refers to the angles, proportions and facet alignments which determine the way light travels through the stone and how it exits the stone.
The top-grade cut, sometimes called the ideal cut, often shows what is called ‘Hearts and Arrows’. This is when all the diamond’s facet angles and percentages are the same or very close to perfect. You can see under a special scope a beautiful pattern of arrows when looking from the top of the stone and hearts when the stone is turned upside down.
PRINCESS CUT DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RINGS
Princess cut diamonds which are featured in engagement rings, and diamond jewellery in general, are square in shape. They are the second most sought-after diamond shape for use in engagement rings in the world today, after the Round Brilliant cut diamond. The square Princess cut, which is often called the square modified brilliant, is for couples who want an engagement ring with a slightly “edgy” look.
Princess cut diamonds are generally less expensive than the Round Brilliant cut for a couple of reasons. One explanation is the effect of price and demand, which puts more competition into the Round Brilliant cut market place. The other reason is that when cutting a Princess cut diamond, as it is more similar to the crystal shape of the original rough diamond, quite often up to 75-80% of the rough crystal can be used. In comparison, Round Brilliant cuts need to have the corners cut off the crystal, reducing the yield to 50% of the original diamond rough weight.
The cut grading for Princess cut diamonds is usually only in two categories, these being Polish and Symmetry, as there is less industry consensus on what the perfect cut should be, so overall Cut grade is not included on the general certificates.
Princess cut diamonds vary in appearance depending on the cut style adopted. With more facets on the underside of the diamond, Princess Cuts can resemble what is described as “Crushed Glass”. In contrast, less facets on the underside of the diamond gives a slightly heavy look to the stone. The most desired seems to be somewhere in between, where you can see the individual facets on the back, but they are small enough to show brilliance in the stone.
CUSHION CUT DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RINGS
Cushion cut diamond engagement rings are very popular amongst people who are looking for something a little different. It’s unlike the classical Round Brilliant cut, and differs from the more angular, straight-lined design of a Princess cut. Nevertheless, it has a beautiful symmetry and finish and looks exquisite when set into a ring.
The design of the Cushion cut diamond has advanced in recent years, compared to its original design which was known as the “Old Mine” cut. It was a cut that would retain the most weight from the initial rough diamond. The Old Mine cut was used back in the 18th century, but in more modern times, the table size, that is the flat, top surface of the stone, has been increased and the symmetry, angles and number of facets have become precise to maximize the brilliance of the cushion cut shape.
Cushion cut diamonds range in shape from very rectangular to the Square Cushion. They also vary greatly in look, with one style having more facets on the pavilion (underside) of the stone, giving the stone a more crushed glass look, compared to the design with less facets and better angles, giving the stone more brilliance and perceived clarity.
When it comes to Cushion cut engagement ring designs, the most popular is still the modest solitaire Cushion cut diamond ring. It is still the standard and accounts for over 50% of Cushion cuts used. The next most popular is the Cushion cut halo style engagement ring, which increases the overall size of the ring for a more dramatic effect.
EMERALD CUT DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RINGS
Emerald cut diamond engagement rings are popular in Adelaide with people who want a vintage, slightly old-world look, while keeping the sophistication and elegance of modernity. The range of Emerald cut ring designs varies widely, but the most popular is the simple Solitaire Emerald cut diamond ring. This is a single diamond in a four-claw setting on a band, the style of which can vary.
Emerald cut Halo ring designs are also quite popular as they still have the straight lines of an Emerald cut diamond, but they are softened off by the round diamonds surrounding it. Designs that employ Emerald cuts coupled with Baguette diamonds work extremely well, as both have the step-cut design (link?) for which Emerald cuts are known and admired.
Emerald cut diamonds come in different proportions, from very long, rectangular shapes to nearly square. The absolute square version of this cut actually comes under a different name, commonly known as the Asscher cut diamond. No matter what proportion, the signature of the Emerald cut diamond is the parallel flat surfaces that give large bar-like flashes of brilliance, compared to the round brilliant cut which has a large number of very small facets. The flat front surface of an Emerald cut lets you look into the stone and the large parallel back facets do not create a lot of interference, therefore enabling the viewer to clearly see into the stone. Any inclusions and unwanted particles are clearly visible, so it is extremely important to find a diamond that is without inclusions and is clean to the eye.
FANCY CUT DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RINGS
Fancy cut diamond rings utilise diamonds of various shapes, such as those mentioned above, and also includes other shapes.
Oval cut diamond engagement rings are the preferred shape for people who want a slightly elongated design, possibly to suit long, slender fingers. Quite often the customer is looking to put other diamonds around the centre stone to create an Oval cut halo engagement ring.
Pear shaped diamond engagement rings are for those who like asymmetry and the combination of the strong and the soft. When set with surrounding stones, pear shape diamonds look both elegant and striking.
Marquise diamond rings have a sharp, crisp look, either as a solitaire diamond ring or set with other stones. This dramatic shape is somewhat noble and conjures images of royalty. It is also a little unusual and well suited to the discerning and refined buyer, even though the Marquise diamond doesn’t carry a royal price tag.
Square Radiant cut diamonds set into engagement rings are becoming more popular nowadays. They are similar to Princess cut diamonds, but have the corners cut off at 45° angles. This gives flexibility in the way the diamond is set into the ring. Rectangular Radiant cut diamonds are often the same shape as the traditional Emerald cut, but the facets are more in the style of the Princess cut.
Heart shape diamond engagement rings are something quite rare in our collection, but are still made occasionally and make for beautiful designs. Often used as a stand-alone heart shape Solitaire diamond ring, this shape is for the true romantics.
Trilliant diamonds are triangular in shape and are usually used on either side of a more regular shaped, larger centre diamond. This also goes for Baguette cut diamonds and Tapered baguette diamonds, which complement the focus stone.
Other more elaborate fancy cuts include the Asprey diamond cut, which is similar to the square cushion, the Criss diamond cut which is a variation on the rectangular Emerald and Radiant cut diamond shapes, the Flanders diamond cut, a variation on the square radiant cut diamond, while the Royal Asscher is a normal Asscher cut, with added facets on the pavilion. The Tamsin cut diamond is rarely sought after but is an octagonal shape, with a similar pavilion to a Round Brilliant cut diamond.
Article Supplied by DDS Diamond Design Studios
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